The use of perfume during the 16th and 17th century was mainly used by the wealthy, that bathed infrequently and used perfume to mask body odours, and due to this the perfume industry boomed and womens fragrances and perfumes became exceptionally popular throughout Europe. The famous perfume water Aqua Admirabilis also known as eau de cologne was created by Giovanni Paolo Feminis an Italian barber in 1732. In order to provide the fast growing perfume industry with raw materials, aromatic plants were being specially grown in Calabria, Sicily and the Grasse region of France. To date France and Italy remain the most noted perfume trade and design centres. The types of perfume were reflected by the concentration amounts of aromatic ingredients in a solvent such as a water and ethanol mixture or just ethanol. The definition of perfume types, sources vary considerably. The longevity and intensity of a perfume is categorized by the concentration of the aromatic ingredients used. The higher the percentage of aromatic ingredients, the more intensity and the longer the perfume will smell and last. For example perfume extract comprises of around 15 to 40% of aromatic ingredients, Esprit de Parfum is around 15 to 30%, eau de Parfum is around 10 to 20%, eau de Toilet is between 5 and 15%, Perfume Mist is around 3 to 8% and aftershave splash contains 1 to 3% of aromatic ingredients.
Is solvent is often used to dilute perfume, although not always in all cases. However, ethanol is by far the more common solvent used as well as ethanol and water to dilute perfumes and fragrances. Neutral smelling oils can also be used such as jojoba oil, coconut oil and liquid waxes. In most instances eau de parfum is far more concentrate as opposed to eau de toilette. Each perfume brand has different amounts of oil added assigned by perfume houses, although the amounts of oil will vary from one perfume house to another.
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In 1370 the Hungarians devised a perfume blended from scented oils and alcohol. A special request was made from the Hungarian Queen that a perfume be specially made for her, and a perfume was produced which was called Hungary Water. During the 16th century in Renaissance Italy the art of perfumery prospered and Catherine de Medici’s took the refinements to her personal perfumers in France by secret passageway, to ensure that the formulas were not stolen in transit. Thanks to her personal perfumer Rene, France then went onto becoming one of Europe’s leading manufacturers for cosmetics and perfumes. Perfume essence cultivated from flowers, became a major industry in France during the 14th century.
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